Costa Rica

Costa Rica is Central America’s great nature destination — a country the size of Denmark that contains 5% of the world’s biodiversity, 26 national parks, active volcanoes, Pacific and Caribbean coastlines, cloud forests and extraordinary wildlife. The national philosophy of Pura Vida permeates everything, and the country’s political stability and high level of development make it the most accessible of the Central American destinations.

Best months: December–April (dry season on the Pacific side) — clear skies, full rivers and the best wildlife viewing. July–August has a mid-year brief dry spell on the Pacific. The Caribbean coast has an inverse weather pattern — September–October are drier on the Caribbean side.

A 4WD hire car is strongly recommended — many of the best routes involve unpaved roads and river crossings. Shuttle buses between the main destinations (Arenal, Monteverde, Manuel Antonio) are an excellent alternative. Most travellers transit through San José rather than staying.

Arénal Volcano / La Fortuna: The most accessible wildlife and volcano area — natural hot springs, wildlife lodges and views of the smoking cone. Monteverde Cloud Forest: Extraordinary biodiversity and excellent canopy tours. Manuel Antonio: The most visited national park for beach and wildlife combined — sloths, monkeys and white-sand beaches in proximity.

Arenal Volcano at dawn: The perfect cone against the morning sky, from the lakeside lodges.
Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve: 13km of walking trails — resplendent quetzals (March–May nesting season), howler monkeys and 400 species of birds.
Tortuguero National Park (Caribbean coast): Green turtle nesting (July–October) — watching a 200kg sea turtle nest on a dark beach is one of nature’s most extraordinary experiences.
Corcovado National Park (Osa Peninsula): rated by National Geographic as one of the most biologically intense places on earth. Accessible only with a licensed guide.
Arenal hot springs at night: Soaking in natural thermal pools at 40°C while watching fireflies over the jungle.

Costa Rican food is honest and unpretentious — the casado (rice, beans, plantain, salad and protein) is the national standard and excellent value at £3–5 at a neighbourhood soda (small restaurant). Costa Rican coffee (particularly Tarrázu region) is among the world’s finest.

Costa Rica is physically active by nature — even the gentler experiences involve some terrain management. The cloud forest (Monteverde, 1,500m) is considerably cooler than the lowlands — a warm layer is needed. Most quality eco-lodges provide an excellent standard of comfort in extraordinary natural settings.

Costa Rica is Central America’s safest country for tourists. San José requires normal urban awareness; the tourist destinations are very well managed. Use licensed tour operators and certified park guides for remote areas. A 4WD is a necessity in the rainy season, not merely a precaution. Emergency: 911.

The Osa Peninsula (Corcovado): most visitors never reach it — the boat journey from Drake Bay to the park entrance, staying at a small eco-lodge on the Osa, is the finest wildlife experience in Central America.
La Paz Waterfall Gardens (near Arenal): five waterfalls in a private garden nature park, with the finest butterfly garden in Central America.
Night walk in the Monteverde cloud forest: An hour-long guided night walk reveals a completely different forest — giant stick insects, glass frogs and the extraordinary sounds of the cloud forest at midnight.