Paris, France

Paris is best understood not as a city of sights but as a city of pleasures \u2014 the pleasure of a perfect caf\u00e9 au lait, of a bistro discovered by smell alone, of sitting in the Jardins du Palais Royal watching Parisians treat daily life as an art form.

The Left Bank remains the most civilised part of the city. The 6th, 7th and 1st arrondissements offer the ideal combination of elegance, manageability and access.

Best months: May\u2013June and September\u2013October. Late spring and early autumn offer mild weather, long evenings and the city at its most beautiful. May is particularly lovely \u2014 chestnut trees in bloom, outdoor seating everywhere.

Avoid August \u2014 many local restaurants close as Parisians leave en masse, and summer crowds at major attractions are punishing. Christmas (late December) can be magical and less crowded than summer.

The M\u00e9tro is efficient and central arrondissements are compact enough to walk. Paris is exceptionally walkable \u2014 Notre-Dame to the Eiffel Tower is about 4km on flat ground. Charles de Gaulle Airport: RER B train to the city centre, 45 minutes, comfortable and luggage-friendly.

The 7th arrondissement (around Rue Cler and the Eiffel Tower) is elegant, safe and remarkably peaceful. The 6th (Saint-Germain-des-Pr\u00e9s) offers the classic Left Bank experience. The 1st (near the Louvre) is central to everything. Avoid staying near the major stations unless needed for rail connections.

The Louvre on a Wednesday or Friday evening: Open until 9:45pm and dramatically less crowded. Focus on one or two wings.
Mus\u00e9e d\u2019Orsay: The world\u2019s greatest Impressionist collection. Thursday evenings are least crowded.
Sainte-Chapelle: The most transcendent Gothic interior in France \u2014 often overlooked, far more intimate than Notre-Dame.
March\u00e9 d\u2019Aligre: Paris\u2019s most authentic daily market, where Parisians actually shop.
Seine river cruise at dusk: The finest introduction to the city.

Look for the plat du jour at lunch (\u20ac14\u201318 for a complete meal including wine) and reserve dinner at neighbourhood bistros. The classics \u2014 duck confit, steak tartare, tarte tatin \u2014 remain benchmarks of their kind. The Rue Cler market street in the 7th is the finest food shopping street in Paris.

Paris is largely flat and well-suited to walking. The M\u00e9tro involves stairs at many stations \u2014 Line 14 and RER stations generally have lifts. Evening temperatures drop even in summer \u2014 bring a layer. The Paris Museum Pass saves considerable time and money if you plan multiple museums.

Paris is a safe city for visitors. Main caution: pickpockets around the Eiffel Tower, Sacr\u00e9-C\u0153ur and on the RER B from the airport. Keep bags in front in crowded areas. The central arrondissements are safe to walk at night. Emergency: 112.

Palais Royal gardens (1st) \u2014 a beautiful arcaded square hidden behind the Louvre that most visitors walk past.
The queue outside Du Pain et des Id\u00e9es (10th) each morning is a reliable guide to the best croissant in Paris.
Promenade Plant\u00e9e: An elevated linear park on a disused railway viaduct \u2014 Paris\u2019s quieter, more romantic answer to the High Line.