Peru

Peru offers the most complete encounter with a pre-Columbian civilisation available anywhere in the world — the Inca Empire at Machu Picchu, the Sacred Valley and Cusco is one of the world’s great archaeological and cultural experiences. Lima is consistently rated among the world’s top five culinary destinations, and the country’s astonishing natural diversity — from the Amazon to the Andes — makes it endlessly rewarding.

Best months: May–October (dry season) — clear skies for mountain views and the best conditions for Machu Picchu visits. June–August is peak season — book Machu Picchu tickets and the Inca Trail 6+ months ahead. The wet season (November–April) is greener, cheaper and less crowded; short afternoon showers at Machu Picchu create extraordinary mist effects.

Lima is the arrival hub; fly Lima–Cusco (1 hour 15 minutes) rather than attempting altitude gain by land. From Cusco, the Peru Rail or Inca Rail trains to Aguas Calientes are spectacular journeys through the Sacred Valley. A reputable operator (Abercrombie & Kent, Cox & Kings) is strongly recommended for first-time visitors, particularly for altitude management.

Cusco (the Inca capital, 3,400m): stay in the historic centre near the Plaza de Armas. Allow 2 full days to acclimatise before visiting Machu Picchu. Aguas Calientes: necessary for early morning access; the Belmond Sanctuary Lodge (at the ruins’ entrance) is the finest option. Lima’s Miraflores district is best for the city’s extraordinary food scene.

Machu Picchu at 6am: The first bus from Aguas Calientes arrives before the tour groups. Watching the morning mist clear from the ruins as the sun rises over Huayna Picchu is one of travel’s defining experiences. Book tickets well in advance; visitor numbers are capped.
Cusco: the Qorikancha (Temple of the Sun): The finest surviving Inca stonework, built over with a Spanish Dominican church.
The Sacred Valley: Inca terracing on an extraordinary scale, salt pans at Maras, the circular agricultural terraces of Moray.
Lima’s Larco Museum: The finest collection of pre-Columbian Peruvian art in the world — the gold and ceramic collections are extraordinary.
Lake Titicaca and the Uros floating islands (Puno): the world’s highest navigable lake and the reed-island communities are unlike anything else in South America.

Lima is home to the world’s most exciting food scene. Central (rated the world’s best restaurant in 2023), Maido and Astrid y Gaston are all extraordinary. Peruvian ceviche (fish cured in lime with chilli and onion) is one of the world’s great dishes. The pisco sour is the national cocktail and indispensable.

Altitude is the primary consideration for Cusco and Machu Picchu. Cusco sits at 3,400m above sea level — acclimatisation requires 2 full days of rest before any strenuous activity. Coca tea, hydration and rest are the best response to symptoms. Diamox (acetazolamide) is available and effective — consult your doctor before travelling. Most good Cusco hotels have oxygen available.

Peru is safe in the main tourist destinations. Cusco, Machu Picchu and Lima’s Miraflores district are all well-managed for visitors. Use hotel-arranged taxis in Lima rather than hailing on the street. Emergency: 105 (police) or 116 (SAMU ambulance).

Choquequirao ruins (accessible only by 4-day trek): Machu Picchu’s larger, entirely unrestored sister city, currently seeing only 30–40 visitors per day. A cable car is planned — visit before it opens.
Colca Canyon (near Arequipa): twice the depth of the Grand Canyon and home to the world’s largest condor population. The Cruz del Cóndor viewpoint at 7am for thermal-riding condors is one of South America’s great wildlife moments.
A cooking class in a Lima market: The discovery that Peruvian cuisine is based on entirely different techniques and ingredients from anything European is one of Lima’s great pleasures.