Kyoto, Japan

Kyoto is Japan distilled \u2014 fifteen centuries of Buddhist and Shinto culture in a city that still functions as a living cultural capital. The temples are not ruins but active places of worship; the gardens are tended to daily perfection; the kaiseki cuisine represents perhaps the greatest culinary tradition in the world.

Cherry blossom (late March\u2013early April) and autumn foliage (mid-November) are staggeringly beautiful but very crowded \u2014 book accommodation 6+ months ahead. Late October or early May offer near-equivalent beauty with fewer visitors. Summer is intensely hot and humid; winter is cold but atmospheric.

From Osaka Kansai Airport: Haruka express train to Kyoto Station, 75 minutes. From Tokyo: Shinkansen, 2 hours 15 minutes. Within Kyoto: IC cards (Suica or ICOCA) work on all transport. Taxis are plentiful and drivers exceptionally helpful.

Higashiyama district places you among preserved machiya lanes with immediate access to the great eastern temples. For a defining experience, a traditional ryokan in Higashiyama or Arashiyama \u2014 futon sleeping, yukata robes, communal baths and kaiseki dinner \u2014 is worth the premium.

Fushimi Inari at 6am: The 10,000 torii gate path with no one else in sight.
Arashiyama bamboo grove at dawn: Before the day-trippers arrive from Osaka.
Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion): Arrive at opening (9am) for the best light.
A tea ceremony in Higashiyama: En tea ceremony experience is excellent, \u00a51,500\u20133,000.
Nishiki Market at lunchtime: Five blocks of extraordinary Japanese produce and street food.

Kyoto is the home of kaiseki \u2014 Japan\u2019s most refined multi-course cuisine. A full kaiseki dinner is one of life\u2019s great culinary experiences; a simpler kaiseki lunch at a temple restaurant can be had for \u00a53,000\u20135,000. Pontocho dining alley offers a full range of atmospheric experiences.

Kyoto\u2019s temples involve gravel paths and uneven stone surfaces \u2014 comfortable footwear is essential. Japan is exceptionally well-set-up for visitors: English signage is excellent, staff at hotels and major sites are patient and helpful. Pharmacies stock comprehensive Western medicines.

Kyoto is among the safest cities in the world. Crime affecting tourists is almost unknown. Japan Rail Pass holders get excellent value \u2014 validate before boarding the Shinkansen.

Philosopher\u2019s Path at 7am in late March \u2014 2km of canal lined with cherry trees, almost entirely empty before 8am.
Daitoku-ji temple complex contains fourteen sub-temples; the rock gardens at Zuiho-in and Daisen-in are among Kyoto\u2019s finest and usually quiet.
A morning zazen session at Kennin-ji or Tofuku-ji costs \u00a5500 and offers a genuine experience of Zen practice.