Marrakech, Morocco

Marrakech is the most complete and intoxicating medina in the Arab world — a medieval city of souks, mosques, hammams, riad gardens and spice markets that has been trading and thriving for a thousand years. The key is to stay inside the medina walls, in a traditional riad, and allow the city to reveal itself slowly — the gentle disorientation of the lanes is part of the experience, not a problem to be solved.

Best months: March–May and October–November. Spring brings pleasant temperatures (22–28°C) and the city at its most beautiful. Autumn is equally good. Avoid July–August — temperatures regularly reach 42°C+ in the medina, which is genuinely dangerous for extended sightseeing. December–February is cool and clear — crisp, bright days and dramatically low accommodation prices.

The medina is navigated entirely on foot. Petit taxis (orange) are cheap and metered for journeys between the medina and the Ville Nouvelle. Marrakech Menara Airport is just 5 minutes from the city by taxi — an extraordinary proximity. Most good riads offer airport pick-up at a fixed rate.

Staying in a traditional riad inside the medina walls is the defining Marrakech experience — rooftop terraces, the call to prayer, breakfast in a tiled courtyard. The areas around Bab Doukkala and Mouassine have the finest mid-range and luxury riads. The Ville Nouvelle (Guéliz) misses the entire point of Marrakech.

Djemaa el-Fna square at dusk: As the sun sets, the square transforms — storytellers, musicians, dancers, food stalls, the call to prayer overhead. One of the world’s great human spectacles. Arrive at 6pm and stay for dinner at the outdoor stalls.
The Saadian Tombs: A 16th-century royal necropolis hidden behind the Kasbah mosque — extraordinary carved stucco and tilework. Best at opening (9am).
Bahia Palace: The most beautiful 19th-century palace in Morocco — painted ceilings, zellij tilework and orange grove gardens.
A traditional hammam: The Hammam de la Rose or Hammam Bab Doukkala are both excellent for visitors — steam bath and scrub is Marrakech’s most authentic wellness experience.
The Majorelle Garden: The blue-painted garden created by Jacques Majorelle and restored by Yves Saint Laurent. Arrive at opening (8am) for an hour of extraordinary tranquillity.

Moroccan food is extraordinary — tagine, bastilla (pigeon or chicken in sweet pastry crust), couscous on Fridays, harira soup at sunset. The finest food is in neighbourhood restaurants and riads rather than the tourist restaurants of the Djemaa el-Fna. Le Foundouk in the medina and Dar Moha are both excellent. The souks have extraordinary preserved lemons, argan oil and ras el hanout spice blends — all worth bringing home.

The medina’s lanes are entirely pedestrian but narrow, uneven and without shade. Plan all outdoor sightseeing for 8–11am and 4–7pm, and rest in the riad during midday. Most riads have rooftop pools — not a luxury but a necessity in summer. Dress modestly in the medina (shoulders and knees covered) — respectful and cooler.

Marrakech is generally safe for tourists but unofficial ‘guides’ who offer to help you find your way will invariably lead you to carpet or leather shops. Accept being lost and enjoy it — the medina is small enough to find your bearings within 20 minutes. Keep bags worn across the body. Emergency: 190 (police) or 15 (SAMU ambulance).

The Mouassine neighbourhood: The most beautiful quarter of the medina — the finest riads, best carpet workshop and most photogenic lanes.
An afternoon horse ride into the Palmeraie at sunset: Marrakech’s most romantic optional excursion through the 3,000-hectare palm grove.
Palais El Badi ruins: The ruined 16th-century palace of Ahmad al-Mansur — an extraordinary melancholy ruin in the heart of the medina, almost entirely unvisited and free.